Getting rid of the black mould that always appears on silicone sealant is a perennial problem (Photo 1). I've seen lots of claims for homemade remedies, usually involving either bleach or vinegar on their own or mixed with baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). In my experience, these may work (partly) with relatively fresh mouldy stains but do not touch ingrained stains. I've always assumed this was because the black mould grows into the (water-repellant) silicone which is inaccessible to water-based remedies. I could be wrong on this and, certainly, you will find lots of testimonials on the efficacy of such products.
Photo 1: Ingrained Black Mould near the Kitchen Sink |
As a first step, you might want to give the homemade recipes a try; especially if you already have the ingredients. Long contact times (4 - 24 hours) are recommended so don't be in a rush to wipe off your weapon of choice.
If your homemade recipe doesn't cut the mustard, what other options do you have? I would say you have two: either use a commercial cleaning product or remove the offending silicone and reapply fresh silicone. As a general rule, fresh silicone does not adhere to old silicone which is why you have to remove the old stuff first.
1. To remove the old sealant, you will need a silicon seal remover kit (Photo 2) available from all good hardware stores. The kit includes a brush with which to apply the silicone softening gel and a plastic scrapper to remove the treated silicone once it has softened (15 - 60 minutes later). It is worth removing any loose silicone before the first application and you may need to repeat the process.
Photo 2: One of Many Silicone Removal Kits |
For small jobs, you can buy squeezable tubes of sealant but it is probably worth investing in a sealant gun and using the more cost-effective silicone cartridges. Be aware that even anti-mould silicone products will eventually need to be replaced - nothing is 100% mould-proof.
In the past, I have found this Unibond Special Sealant works well. It is less viscous than your standard silicone sealant and will adhere to old sealant. I still recommend you try to remove as much old sealant as possible though.
Photo 3: 'Special' Silicone Sealant |
2. The second option is to use a commercial cleaning product of which there are many sold on Amazon.
Photo 4: Successful Mould Remover |
While the various products appear to be similar (containing a bottle of anti-mould gel, a brush, a cloth and a disposable glove, Photo 5) ...
Photo 5: Box Contents |
Photo 6: Chlorine Bleach Mould Remover |
So far, I have only tested the Aticers product and I was moderately impressed with the ease of use and the efficacy of this product. Photo 1, at the top of the page, shows the pre-treatment condition of the silicone sealant. After one application (12 hours between gel application and removal, Photo 7) ...
Photo 7: After One Application |
... and after a second application (12 hours between gel application and removal, Photo 8) ...
Photo 8: After Two Applications |
The Aticers product did a reasonably good job despite the age of the mouldy sealant (8 years). Some mould stains reacted better than others to the treatment. When applied to a relatively new (1 year) sealant mould in a shower cubicle, the black mould was not visible after treatment.
I will report separately on the performance of the Glowpoint product.
The main advantage of the commercial cleaning product was that the shower/sink was not taken out of use for the cleaning process. After ensuring the sealant was dry by rubbing with an adsorbent paper towel, the gel was applied before going to bed and removed (wet cloth) first thing in the morning. Removing then replacing the silicone sealant (Option 1) not only takes longer and more effort, but the sink/shower/bath is out of action for a longer period (24 hours).
I have some tougher mould stains to try out these two products and will report at a later date. If the chlorine bleach product (Glowpoint) works well then I may need to rethink the homemade recipes!